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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap. :>::!.l. Copyright No. 

Shelf,i.b;-l-.2> 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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A. <>. 




A SYSTEM 



-OF- 



HORSE TRAINING 



— AN — 



IMPROVEMENT ON THE RAREY METHOD 




By JOHN GRACE 



fbCT . 18B4 /j 



PRINTED AT PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., 

1884. 






Copyright, 1884, 
By JOHN GRACE. 



PREFACE. 



The author of this work presents a new system for training 
unbroken, badly broken, and vicious horses. It embraces a 
theory and practice, the results of an experience of twenty-five 
years in California in training horses for the saddle and har- 
ness ; and is offered as a valuable assistant to those who feel an 
interest in the proper education of this noble servant of man — 
the Horse. 

The author also feels it a duty he owes to those who try 
this system, to lay before them some improved appliances — the 
results of a long practice and study. 

JOHN GRACE. 



The Grace system of Horse Training. — An Im- 
provement on the Rarey Method. 



Common-sense Method of Training a Vicious or Badly- 
Trained Horse. 

See that the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon 
the horse is unoccupied by any thing which might distract his 
attention, — either persons, animals or fowls, — and that he is 
placed therein as quietly as possible. 

First, place a halter over his neck and halter-break him. 

As this operation is often dangerous to both horse and 
trainer, first provide against accident to yourself; second, secure 
your horse against the possibility of injury ; and, third, accom- 
plish the object in the quickest time possible, to render the 
lesson a permanent one. 

Having these rules in view, proceed as follows: 

Prepare a stick about one inch in diameter and about ten 
feet long, with two wooden pins run through it — one about an 
inch from one end, the other seven inches therefrom and ex- 
tending through two inches on either side. Hang the running 
noose of a common rope halter, twelve feet in length, upon the 
small pins and hold the other end in the hand. 

Now to place the halter over the horse's head advantage 
must be taken of his natural curiosity by extending the hang- 
ing noose toward him; he may be alarmed at first, but if it is 
gently moved, the horse will soon reach his nose toward it and 
quite likely touch it. When he begins to smell the halter hold 
the stick pretty well up over his head, and while the animal's 
attention is attracted by the swinging noose gently pass it over 



6 

his ears, and turning ths stick half around drop the rope from 
the pins upon his neck. This will cause the horse to start 
back, but by holding firmly upon the halter, the noose will be 
drawn fast. 

Now lay the stick aside, and proceed to teach him the use of 
the halter. Take a position about opposite the shoulder, still 
keeping off at a distance, give him a sharp pull toward you, 
suffisient to move him, imnediately slackening the pull. The 
object in doing this is fco cause the animal to feal your power 
to move him, and by slackening the pull you do not give him 
time to resist, which, if the pull should be steady, he will do 
even to the extent of throwing himself down, a matter to be 
always avoided. This should be repeated a number of times, 
until the disposition to resist seems to grow weaker. You will 
then perform the operation upon the other side, and alternately 
fro :n side to side (always avoiding a forward pull), and con- 
tinue the short pulls until the horse either moves readily or be- 
comes stubborn. The reason for working upon both sides is, 
that in this, as vvell as in all other matters which you attempt 
to instruct the horse, there are two sides to teach. What he 
learns to do from one side he must learn on the other side, in 
order to have a complete understanding of what is required 
of him. Ths reason for avoiding a forward pull is, that you 
can not easily move the horse in that direction ; and as he 
learns from your acts, you should not attempt to do .anything 
which you are not reasonably sure of succeeding in. 

If the horse appears to be of a yielding disposition, you will 
now gradually shorten your hold upon the halter, as you pull 
from side to side, being watchful to avoid the possibility of his 
striking or kicking you, when you com 3 within reach of his 
head, gently put forth your hand and allow him to examine it 
with his nose — for in this way all horses test the danger or 
harmlessness of strange objects. 

As he becomes accustomed to your presence, proceed to care- 
fully caress him with the hand, gently touching his face and 



forehead, gradually extending the hand down his nose, farther 
and farther until he heccmes calm. Then quietly tie a knot 
through the noose, so that it can not slip, leaving it quite loose. 
Up to this point no undue resistance on his part has been 
called out. 

When it can safely be done change the ro'pe to a strajy 
halter. Eepeat the pulling operation, being careful to get a 
side pull. As you pass in front approach and caress him, en- 
couraging him to step off willingly without the pull. Should 
the horse be stubborn and refuse to move take hold of the 
halter-straj) with yo%ir left hand ahcut a foot jrcm the liead 
and move the right hand gently down his rump, seize the tail, 
and give him a few shavp turns aro%ind, 'pulling the head 
towards you. To start him and give celerity to his movement 
administer an occasional blow with the top of your foot across 
the buttock. (See Figure 1.) 

In what way turning the horse in the manner described 
affects his will and disposition I leave professors of science 
to determine and pronounce. I well know from long experience 
the effect is magical and permanent. 

That this method of affecting the disposition of the horse is 
a great improvement upon the Rarey system becomes evident 
on reflection. For by the one method the horse with his fore 
legs hampered exhausts himself by violent and prolonged 
plunges often lasting over an hour and becomes passive simply 
because he is exhausted. By my method the will of the horse 
is taken possession of and his disposition changed by a few 
moderate efforts of his trainer lasting a few seconds each. The 
apparent difficulty of turning a horse in this - way, vanishes 
upon trial. But a mere novice in training having a big horse 
on his hands should proceed to bit the horse and then adopt 
the plans described on page 17. This turning movement is 
the basis of my system and has the most iconderful effect in 
securing submission. 

Having given the horse a few turns then proceed with 



8 

pulling as before. If the horse remains stubborn, repeat 
the operation of turning him twice or three times. By this 
time he will probably appear to brighten up and show signs of 
being willing to step as you wish him. If he should not, take a 
riding whip in your right hand, holding the halter-strap with 
the left, and standing by his side, hold the whip over his back 
and touch him gently on the off-side hip, at the same moment 
giving a gentle side pull upon the halter, (^iee Figtire 2.) If 
this starts him, caress him and then repeat the operation. If 
he does not start nor show signs of moving, caress him, give 
him a kind look and word, and leave him a few^ moments be- 
fore proceeding, allowing him to get quiet if he is angered or 
frightened. By kindness and patience alone is he to he assured 
that no injury is intended. 

So soon as he is quiet proceed again as before. As soon as 
he steps readily at a slight side pull throw the halter-strap 
over the neck, and let him go for half an hour. This will be 
the first lesson. 

Repeat this lesson, and as soon as he becomes perfectly 
accustomed to obey the side pull, commence teaching him to 
obey the forward pull, by gently pulling him straight ahead. 
If he leads, no matter how little, caress him and repeat, but be 
careful and not pull too hard. If he does not move with a 
reasonable pull, give him two or three of the short side pulls 
and try again. Be sure not to give a determined pull in front, 
for it will not succeed, and will only teach the horse your weak- 
ness, and by inflicting pain upon him teach him to pull at the 
halter — his natural movement being in a direction opposite that 
which causes hitn pain. 

To Hitch an Unbroken Horse in the Stall. 

A common one-horse stall should be prepared, by having a 
hole bored in each side of the rear end post of the stall, to put 
a pole through, or staples driven in to tie a rope or strap across 
at about the height where the breeching would come on the 



horse if harnessed. Lead him in to the stall and put up the 
pole or strap before he is tied. The rear obstruction is to pre- 
vent him from backing so far as to pull on the halter, hurting 
his head with the halter, and pulling harder to avoid the hurt. 
In removing him from the stall, be sure and untie the halter 
before loosing the obstruction in the rear, and for the first few 
days be careful not to hitch the horse where he can have a 
chance to pull. 

By observing these rules for a few days there is no danger 
that the horse will ever become a halter puller. Bear in mind 
that during the entire process of handling the horse it is most 
necessary to speak to him in a mild manner, to quiet his fears 
and familiarize him with your voice. Never speak sharp or 
loud, but gently and firmly. 

For instance, in the side pulls, say: "Come here, sir;" 
this kejDt up continually will eventually teach the horse to come 
to you on being spoken to in these words. 

To GET THE HOKSE USED TO THE BiT. 

Place on the horse an ordinary head-stall with joint bit, 
without check strap or reins. Frequently replace it, allowing 
it to remain on only a short time. By this means he becomes 
used to the bit and to bitting. This is better than the way so 
often adopted of putting on the bitting bridle at once. In a 
day or two the horse is ready for the bitting bridle. 

Prepare a well-padded leather girth with three iron loops 
firmly riveted thereon — one at the center on the back, and 
one on each side. A crupper should be attached to this girth, 
the crotch strap of which should be about six inches long and 
its entire length about twelve inches. One end of the slip 
strap should be buckled to the crupper, the other end to a two- 
inch ring, lying flat upon the haunch. To this latter ring is 
buckled a strap which runs along the back through the iron 
loop on top of the girth, and has an upright ring on the end, to 
which is to be attached the check rein. This strap is double. 



10 

so that its length may be altered to meet the check rein. To 
the crupper ring on the haunch attach two short straps (one on 
each side of the back-strap referred to) about eight inches long, 
with a buckle on each end. Use a common head-stall with gag 
runners of leather, placed well up toward the ears and with a 
large joint bit; the throat latch to be made large and buckle 
under the gag runners; the side straps to be made about five 
feet long, with a snap on one end and holes for the buckle 
tongue on the other end. These straps are to be fastened by 
the snap to the bit and then passed through the side loops on 
the girth, and to be buckled to the sliort straps fastened to the 
ring on the haunch. (See Figure 3.) Having this harness 
ready, then proceed to 

Bitting the Horse, 

taking care not to buckle any of the straps too tight at first, so 
as not to give pain or even annoy the animal. Many horses 
have been ruined by carelessness in this particular, especially 
by having the throat latch too tight. When loose they more 
readily yield to the side reins. The degree of checking up 
should be governed by the length and form of the neck and 
shoulders. The side straps should be buckled just sufiiciently 
to impose restraint. As soon as the horse shows a disposition 
to yield, the bridle should be removed or the check or side- 
strap loosened, and within at least fifteen minutes from the 
time it was first put on. The oftener it is taken ofi" and re- 
placed for the first four days the better, not however remov- 
ing it while the horse is sulky and refuses to move his head. 
The lesson to be taught him is that he cannot be loosened 
from the restraint while he is resisting. 

This will prove useful in all further dealings with the animal. 

Riding the Horse. 
This should be done as soon as he is well bridle-broken. 
Begin the lesson in a small enclosure. Use a common riding 



11 

bridle without girth or martingale. Tie the reins together on 
top of the neck, tight enough to check him very little. Stand 
on the near side near the shoulder, and place the loop strap 
across the withers near where the reins lie. 

Quietly reach under in front and caress the fore-legs, and 
as soon as he is sufficiently quiet, buckle the loop around the 
pastern of the off fore foot. If he is restive and prevents this 
or shows signs of striking or kicking, take him by the bridle 
and tail, the left hand well up to the head, and wliirl him 
around three times or more (see Figure 1 ); and while he is dis- 
concerted by this movement fasten the strap. Then take hold 
of the near rein within about four inches of the head, and 
with the right hand draw upon the strap so as to lift the foot 
clear from the ground, at the same time pulling on the rein 
toward you quite firmly, until he has made two or three hops 
on three legs. 

The object to be gained by this is first, to teach the horse 
that he is not to be hurt and that he cannot get away. This 
tends to prevent him from plunging when an attempt is made 
to ride him ; second, by pulling the strap across his back it ac- 
customes him to bear the weight there; third, it prevents him 
from throwing himself over backwards. Do this every few 
minutes for half an hour. Next take a shorter hold on the 
strap, draw the foot up, passing your right arm well over his 
back, and with the left hand take hold of the near rein and 
mane near the withers, and then make a motion of mounting. 
Do this until the horse becomes accustomed to the positions 
and movements. Then quietly mount him, the foot being still 
held up. (See Figure 4-) 

To Mount the Horse. 

Take hold of the mane with your left hand, placing the right 
hand upon the back, then springing lightly raise yourself upon 
your wrists until the waist reaches the hight of the horse's 
withers, lean forward and throw the right leg over his back. 



12 

This lesson with the foot-strap and of mounting should be 
repeated until the horse is accustomed to your presence on his 
back and your legs against his sides. 

There is no danger that he will fall down while the foot is 
up, as might be supposed. When it is determined to start him 
forward, keep a strong hold of the foot-strap till the knot in 
the reins is untied, and then let down the foot, commence to 
turn him from side to side and urge him forward. If he is un- 
willing to start, use a whip, holding it in the same hand with 
which you hold the foot-strap, and gently touch him with it on 
the off hind leg, gradually increasing the blows until he starts, 
at the same time loosing the rains. In turning him pull upon 
only 'one rein at a time, otherwise the horse will be apt to run 
backward, sideways and otherwise, and act awkwardly. Ride 
him only a hundred yards the first time. Be decided but 
gentle in mounting and in all your dealings with the horse. 

The Breaking Bridle. 

This is a snaifle joint-bit with rings at each end, but no bars 
— the shorter the bit the better. 

The bit has two loose rings upon the mouth piece. (See 
Figure 5.) Attach the bit to a common bridle in the usual 
manner. A strap across the nose just above the nostril, fast- 
ened through the two loose rings, draws it moderately tight. 
Attach a strap to the browband, bring it down to the center of 
the face and attach it to the strap over the nose to prevent it 
slipping down. Take a piece of f inch rope about 8 feet in 
length, tie one end to the near-side ring of the bit, pass the 
other end under the jaw through the ofi'-side ring of the bit, 
then bring the rope over the neck from the off-side to the near- 
side, placing it where the collar usually comes, pass it down 
the near-side and through over that portion of the rope which is 
between the two bit rings under the jaw and make fast. Now 
as you tighten upon the rope you perceive that the two loose 



13 

rings will come together, and will consequently press tightly 
upon the cheek. 

The effect upon the horse is instantaneous and irresistible. 
This bit is safe and reliable, and will control the most vicious 
horse. 

The Long Foot Strap 

is in two parts, and that for the pastern is made of two pieces. 
There is first an inner strap of soft leather, an inch and a half 
wide, ten inches long, with the inside edges shaved thin to 
avoid chafing. Then an outer strap of firm leather, fifteen 
inches long and one inch wide, on one end of which place a 
buckle and loop with a lap of two inches on the under side, on 
the other end punch holes for the buckle tongue. The last 
named strap is stitched on the outside of the wider one, with 
one end extended an inch beyond the buckle, having the loop 
pretty close to the buckle. A half ring or D is run over the 
outer strap two inches from the buckle. This is buckled 
around the fore foot just below the fetlock. A strap or web- 
bing, fifteen feet in length, fastened in the ring, completes the 
long foot-strap. 

How TO Handle the Feet of a Horse which has Never 

BEEN Shod. 

''After breaking the horse to lead well, caress and rub him on 
the shoulders as at first, and as soon, as he will bear, work 
down the withers and leg; then lift lightly on the foot; if it is 
submitted to, rub it quickly and smoothly a few seconds, then 
put it down and take it again, and so continue until you can 
handle the foot as you please. 

"The main point for you to consider is, that you are to make 
the horse understand that you will not hurt him, and to do 
this you must be gentle. Now place your hand on the 
shoulder and run it back over the side and hips softly and 
quickly; handle every part thoroughly as you work along 
towards the leg, and as the horse will bear, work the hands 
around the leg until you reach the foot. If there is no resist- 



14 

ance after, lift up a little, and if there is no resistance after 
letting it down, rub gently a little more; repeat each time, lift- 
ing it up a little higher, until you can take it up and handle it 
just as you please. Should he, however, resist, and jerk his 
foot away from you, you must resort to means to make him 
understand that resistance is out of the question." 

Shoeing the Horse. 

To jDrepare a horse for shoeing the first time, tie the "long 
foot-strap" around the neck, pass it along the near side, be- 
tween the hind legs, and bringing it around the near hind leg 
close up to the body, pass it under the strap around the neck, 
then draw upon the strap, holding him meanwhile by the 
bridle. The horse will probably be nerv^ous at the pull and 
you will loosen it and caress him over the face and neck, gradu- 
ally tightening at each successive pull, using no words but 
gentle ones, and not saying "whoa." When he has become 
accustomed to it, lower the strap to a point just above the 
hock, and gradually pull upon the strap until you lift the leg, 
at the same time pulling upon the bridle with a side or back 
pull to prevent his stepping forward. When you have thus 
succeeded in easily lifting the leg pretty well up, you will find 
that you can take it up with your hand and hold it. The same 
process must of course be gone through with on the other leg, 
and after about ten lessons your horse is ready to go to the 
blacksmith. The rule has usually been to take the horse to the 
blacksmith first, but he is more than apt to get bad habits by 
being forced into position to be shod, and probably gets pounded 
to his injury if the blacksmith's stock of patience is not very 
large. Shoeing should always be done as the feet grow tender, 
and if quite young, shoe very often. 

Horses should be shod extremly light for a few times. 

Never turn out your horse to pasture without first removing 
his shoes. 

Hints About the Horse. 
In teaching the horse words, always accompany the words 



15 

with an explanatory act — something which will call his atten- 
tion to the connection between the word and the act; for 
instance, in saying " Whoa," always pull upon the reins or foot 
strap. Never use words, either in or out of the stable, except 
for a purpose. Such words as "Stand around," "Take care," 
etc., are proper to be used when occasion requires, but you 
should not say "Whoa," when you mean "Take care," in 
approaching the horse; nor "Whoa, back," when you mean 
either one or the other. It is well known that it is difficult 
for a person to control himself in this particular. We there- 
fore strongly impress its importance upon those having to deal 
with horses. 

" Man is so dependent upon the use of horses, and their value 
and safety is so much regulated by their good character and 
obedience to control, that it is necessary that their education 
and government should be dictated by reason and humanity. 

"The low order of his understanding and his extreme strength 
make him more liable to become both vicious and uncon- 
trollable. Unable to comprehend the object of restraint, 
confused and excited by bad treatment, he is prompted to get 
away at all hazards. 

"The horse when frightened strives to avoid the cause of 
danger, whether real or imaginary. The more unexpected, the 
greater and more lasting the sense of danger, to a degree that 
may act so powerfully upon the nervous system as to fix an 
impression of fear which it is difficult to overcome. Resistance 
once excited, the difficulty of successful restraint is increased; 
the horse learning the possibility of resisting control, the dis- 
position becomes so strong it at once becomes a habit to persist 
in, and all the great energies of the animal are brought into 
requisition. No matter what the habit, this peculiarity of 
persistence is evinced when once learned. A weak halter broken 
once or twice, the horse will strive to pull loose at all hazards, 
when and where hitched, the foot is pulled away when 
attempted to be shod, and the habit becomes confirmed. Some 
minor part of the harness or wagon breaking, fear stimulates 
resistance, and once freeing himself, the horse will ever after- 
wards strive to get away under like circumstances. The 
same may be said of a vicious disposition. A stallion once 



16 

encouraged to bite, and permitted to do so, leads to an eager 
disposition to bite ever afterwards. 

"Blended with the skill of showing and teaching the horse a 
knowledge of what is required, is that of forcing obedience. 
This was at first done by the rudest of coercive measures. 

"The effects of rude treatment are particularly noticeable on 
horses of a sensitive, ambitious character. Such either fret or 
are dangerous, when subject to the management of an impul- 
sive, irritable groom, though extremely docile and safe to a 
careful, patient person. 

"If horses be subjected to skillful and prudent management 
they will easily be made docile and controllable. On tlie other 
hand, subjected to rude, imprudent treatment, they are at once 
liable to become unreliable, hostile, and impulsive brutes. 

"Tlie o-enerous reward of this skill should be an incentive to 
every one to acquire a correct knowledge of this duty. That 
there is great loss, and lamentable accidents caused almost 
daily in every neighborhood from the use of horses that are 
dangerously vicious and unmanageable, cannot be questioned. 
One horse will run away if given the least freedom. Another 
is liable to kick himself clear from the wagon should a strap 
dangle against the flanks, the breeching break, or anything 
unusual occur to excite his fears. 

"One horse will balk. Another goes when and where he 
pleases. Another can scarcely be harnessed with safety. 
Another will kick if the rein touches the hip, or is caught 
under the tail. One will not stand while being mounted, or 
while getting into the carriage. Another will not back. Others 
are frightened, and sheer and jump at a stone, stumj), or a white 
cow. One horse cannot be driven by a load of hay, a railroad 
track, etc., while to others an umbrella, buffalo robe, or even 
a bit of white paper are terrible objects of fear. There are 
but very few even of the horses that are considered well 
broken, that have not some habit that makes them unpleasant, 
or greatly lessons their usefulness and value. 

"Well broken horses are a necessity demanded by the pro- 
gress and intelligence of the age. 

"They must be taught or shown that "man is master," that 
what he desires to do with them he can do. 

"Nothing so completely subdues him as to convince him that 
he cannot do as he pleases, but that he must submit to the 
master. Having been thoroughly convinced that he is under 



17 

control, that his movements are entirely under control, he p^ives 
up. 

"Never let the horse perceive that you are angry; try patient- 
ly to subdue the animal, but never by beating, and particularly 
by striking upon or about the head. He who first aspires to 
govern must first govern himself. Nothing is more fatal than 
outbursts of passion and rage. If you feel your temper get- 
ting the best of you, leave the task for the time, or you will 
only still more enrage, frighten, and bewilder the horse, and so 
render hopeless the effort to control the animal." 

Having bitted the horse, and accustomed him to the bridle, 
it is a good time to fully subject him, if large, vicious, or 
nervous, to the subduing effects of turning. 

As remarked, page 7, it may be undesirable for a small 
trainer to try to turn this kind of a horse with the halter 
and tail hold. But with the bridle and the girth, above 
described, the matter is very simple. 

Through the rings of the bridle bit run a rope, knotted at the 
end so that it will not slip through. Pass the free end of 
the rope through the off loop of the girth; stand close by 
the near shoulder of the horse, and pull slightly on the rope 
till the horse turns his head in that direction, then draw his 
head close and hold it firmly to his side. He will immediately 
commence turning, pivoting on his fore feet. After two or 
three revolutions he should be given his head and then the 
special instructions in hand can be proceeded with. 

In this manner the most obstreperous horse can generally, 
in one or two minutes, be compelled to lie down, and wdll then 
be as passive as if completely exhausted after an hour of the 
Rarey method of throwing. 

"The operation must be repeated from ten to twenty times, or 
until the horse seems entirely disgusted with the controversy. 
This operation, if properly conducted, will have resulted in the 
obtaining control of the horse and in his willingness to be 
accommodating at least." 



18 

How TO Throw a Horse. 

The easiest and most effectual method of throwing a horse is 
to strap up the near fore-foot, put on a surcingle with a ring 
fastened to the top of it, tie a half-inch rope around his neck 
halterwise, placed up near the throat latch with the knot on 
the near-side of the face, pass the rope in the mouth and Ijring 
it along his neck on the ofF-side, then pass it through the ring 
in top of the surcingle on the back, standing off on the near- 
side about six or eight feet from the horse and opposite the 
near hind-leg, keeping the rope sufficiently tight to prevent him 
from disengaging it from his mouth. Pull carefully until he 
yields his head a little to the off-side, then give a sharp, strong 
continuous pull until the horse falls, which will occupy from 
one to five seconds. As he goes down, laying on the near-side, 
keep the rope tightened and he cannot get up. By repeating 
this a few times the horse will lie down from a very slight 
pull on the rope. 

He can be thrown on either side by this process with perfect 
safety. 

One great advantage of throwing cavalry horses will be 
found in this, that after a few lessons a slight turning movement 
of the horse to the right will induce him to quietly lie down : 
then by tying up one foot with the hobble he cannot rise. 
Thus, when a troop is dismounted to fight, the horses can be 
sheltered and left with a few men to guard them instead of 
one-fourth of the command being retaining away as horse- 
holders from the fighting line. 

AxoTHER Plan, 

and, in some respects, a better one, especially when it is desira- 
ble to tie the feet of the horse when down, is to take about a 
four-inch ring, sew to it two straps, one about three feet in 
length, two and a half inches wide, w4th a double-tongue 
buckle sewed to the end, and the other about one foot long, two 
and a half inches wide, with holes punched therein for the 



19 

buckle tongue. Then take a rope about twenty feet long and 
lap the center on the ring, strap up the near fore-leg of the 
horse and place on him a strong bridle with the check 
pieces tolerably short. Buckle the wide strap around the neck 
with the ring upon the breast, pass the rope between the fore- 
legs and out between the hind-legs, bringing the ends of the 
rope again forward on the out-side of each hind-leg above the 
gambrel, then, passing the ends on the out-side of the fore-legs, 
put them through the ring from the inside. Have an assistant 
take hold of each rope, prepared to pull as you say " ready," 
which will be as soon as you slip the rope below the gambrel 
joint on both legs. Pull the ofF-side bridle rein as he falls, 
which he will on the near-side. The person holding the near- 
side rope will keep it taut. 

As you stand by the horse's shoulder, reach over and take 
the off-side rope — the person releasing it kneeling down and 
taking the horse's head between his knees and hold it with his 

ft 

nose upward. With the off-side rope take a half hitch over his 
off hind-foot and bring down his off fore-foot, take a half hitch 
on that and another one on the hind-foot, and wind this rope 
once around the one between the two feet. 

This done, receive the near-side rope and make two half 
hitches over the near hind-foot. Take a strap already prej)ared, 
about three inches wide and about three feet long, with a D 
fastened to each end, and with an in^h strap about a foot from 
each end and three feet in length, so prepared with a buckle as 
to be made shorter or longer as the case may require, to be 
used as a crouper, and tie the strap through the D to the off 
foot with the end of the rope. 

Go behind the horse, take hold of the tail between the small 
strap and wide one, and pull the latter as far under the horse 
as possible, then roll him half over, pull the strap up to just 
beyond the point of the hips, pass the rope on the near-side 
through the D of the strap and, drawing the near-legs dowm 
close to the side, tie it. 



20 

Keep him on his back during this operation. " 

Be careful and observe the instructions closely, as a failure 

to do every portion of the work properly may cause you to be 

injured. 

The operator must exercise judgment, governing himself by 

the location of the operation. 

Special Instructions. 

The sounds and sights which the military horse must be 
especially instructed to disregard, and the special faults of 
which he must be corrected as soon as possible, are : 

1st. — The discharge of cannon and fire-arms, especially of the 
carbine and pistol, in close proximity to his ears. 

2d. — Martial music, especially the sudden bursts of music 
from a band. 

3d. — The flitting of an object suddenly before him, like a 
bundle of paper or rolling weeds borne by the wind across the 
road. 

4th. — A mound of fresh earth, like a new grave. 

5th. — A dummy man to represent one dead. 

6th. — The movement of the saber or carbine about the 
horse's head when held in the hand when mounted, or when 
leading him. 

7th. — Sudden change in the appearance of an object, like 
the flaunting of a blanket or the opening of an umbrella. 

8th. — Balking and bucking and turning suddenly while 
mounting. 

In the instruction of the horse to cure him of his fear of 
any of these sights, and to stop him from committing the 
faults referred to, resort must be had to the special treat- 
ment herein prescribed in each case, in connection with the 
turning movement. 

Effects of Fear and How to Remove the Causes. 
To the excitement and impulse of resistance, induced by 



21 

fear, may be attributed directly or indirectly nearly all bad 
habits of the horse. Repeated and continued success in con- 
trolling the horse teaches him confidence in the trainer or rider, 
and hence removes his fear of any sight or sound ; while failure 
weakens and destroys the trainer's influence and increases the 
horse's disposition to resist and confirms his faults. 

Beating a drum suddenly near a horse unaccustomed to the 
sound, will in almost every instance induce fear, and if suc- 
cessful in getting away from the noise and from the control of 
the rider, he will ever afterwards be frightened at the sound of 
a drum or any other loud rattling noise. 

To reconcile the horse to this sound or to the report of fire- 
arms, or to a sudden apparition like opening of an umbrella, 
etc., first place him under control of the breaking bridle and 
adjust the long foot strap. Lead him towards an assistant who 
has a drum, and up to it if possible, so that he can smell and 
examine it. If he will not go, draw up his fore-leg and then 
direct the assistant to approach him gradually till the matter 
in hand is placed against his nose, rubbed against his neck and 
body. The assistant should then retire and repeat the same 
operation several times. When the horse submits to this 
quietly he should then be allowed to hear the drum faintly 
rattle at some distance, then closer and louder. If he becomes 
restive, the beating should cease till the instrument is brought 
to him that he may smell and touch it. This to be continued 
till it can be beaten all around him. . 

To accustom him to the report of the pistol, caps must be first 
fired at some distance, then small charges of powder, with the 
foot raised, till finally with foot on the ground he will permit 
it fired close on each side and over his back. 

To a spirited horse the movement of the carbine and sabre 
in men's hands, w^hen he is led or when mounted, is annoying. 
In one case he holds back, in the other he starts and jumps, 
while the sudden shaking of a blanket or overcoat, or opening 
of an umbrella for the first time is generally appalling. As 



22 

in case of the drum, these things must first be brought to him, 
and rubbed against his nose and body. 

Then wlien his leg is raised take for instance the umbrella 
and open it slightly. If he starts and shows great fear it 
should be closed and again rubbed gently against his nose, the 
trainer all the time looking at him with a kind expression and 
speaking to him in an encouraging tone of voice. Then by 
degrees, after a few lessons, the umbrella can be spread open 
suddenly and passed all about his head without creating the 
least disquietude. So, too, the sabre and carbine may be 
flourished around his head Avithout causing him to move aside 
or pull back. 

Success in overcoming the too nervous sensibility of the 
horse, is attained by tact in preventing him from becoming 
frightened from any cause. Any inanimate object, as a news- 
paper or bundle of reeds, suddenly crossing the path of the 
horse, blown by the wind, usually produces such dismay as to 
put him beyond the control of the rider. To accustom him to 
such an object, have a bundle of papers, in an open space, to 
which attach a long string. First, take the horse as near the 
bundle as possible ; then when no amount of encouragement 
will get him nearer, draw up his leg, and have an assistant 
drag the paper to him very slowly at first till he smells them 
and becomes indifferent; then, from behind some screen, drag 
them suddenly into view near him. If he becomes seriously 
frightened, draw up his leg till the bundle is brought up to 
him, that he may see t^hat it is, etc Repeat this till all fear 
disappears. 

To accustom the horse to a new-made grave or a dead per- 
son, two objects which many horses will not approach, and 
which cannot be made to approach him, have a mound a fresh 
earth thrown up and a dummy man prepared. Lead the horse 
to them, and when he cannot be encouraged to approach nearer, 
give him ^few turns around and try again. 

By these means and a little patience and encouragement 



23 

these objects should cease to create alarm after a lesson of 
twenty minutes. 

The management of balking and bucking horses is after the 
same manner. 

Horses Baulking. 

"This is the most aggravating of all the habits to which the 
horse is subject; it tries the patience of man to the utmost; 
yet by patience and perseverance, with proper management, 
even this habit can be broken up. It is rarely that we find a 
baulky horse which is not a good one. They are usually very 
high spirited, quick of comprehension and of a strong nervous 
temperament. They resist because we have failed to make 
them understand what we require of them. Particularly is this 
the case with young animals. To whip under such circum- 
stances only excites them to more determined resistance. On 
the first attempt of your horse to baulk dismount, pat him upon 
the neck, examine him carefully, first upon one side, then upon 
the other, speaking encouragingly to the animal while doing 
so; then mount and give him the rein; generally he will obey; 
if he refuses to do so dismount; then take him by the head 
and tail, reel him until he is almost ready to fall; this rarely 
fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them and they start at 
the word. 

"By repeating the same operations every day for a week, 
usually breaks up this most perplexing habit thoroughly and 
permanently." 

To correct these faults requires patient adroitness as well 
as the most convincing power of control. With the breaking 
bridle give the horse a few short pulls right and left, sharp and 
lively; then after a brief rest tie the hair of the tail in a hard 
knot, and parting the hair above the knot, pass the bridle rein 
through, draw it short and tie in a half hitch. This will bring 
the head around towards the tail and compel the horse when 
he moves to travel in a circle. If the horse should not move 
fast enough urge him behind with the whip, regulating his 
efforts so as to keep him moving just fast enough not to fall 
down. He should be circled in this way from five to ten 



24 

niiiiutes. As soon as the rein is untied from the tail seize the 
breaking bridle and pull up on it right and left five or six 
times. There should be an interval of a few hours between 
lessons, and the lessons should be repeated two or three times 
for several days. There need be no fear of training the mouth 
too hard, but do not make it sore. After this discipline bring 
the part of the bridle rope, that goes over the neck, up to the 
ears, step a little sideways and forward, and give a sharp pull. 
If the horse moves forward, loosen the rope and the bridle and 
caress him. Repeat this till he moves forward very readily 
when pulled upon. 

Now put on the saddle and long foot strap, and mount him. 
If he shows any signs of resistance, either by balking or buck- 
ing, dismount and repe it the turning movement. Very soon 
all attempts to balk ®r buck will cease. 

"Whatever may be the bad habit of your horse, it is a very 
good plan to give him a regular course of training, and by 
throwing a horse down and handling him just as you please 
while down, demonstrates to the understanding of the animal 
that it is worse than useless to try to resist control. It is 
the best way ever found to handle nervous horses. Handle 
gently while down and when they find they are not hurt, they 
get over their fear, and will allow^ you to do with them as you 
like anywhere." 

" To teach a horse to lie dowm quickly you must lay him down 
a few times with the rope and strap, as described, page 18. 
AVhen down treat your horse with great attention and kindness. 
After putting him down a few times in this way he will usually 
lie down in a short time by taking up one foot and holding it 
in your hand, asking him to lie down; he will soon come 
down. When he will come on his knees by taking his foot in 
your hand, stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, "Lie 
down, sir!" Then make him come down by a motion of the 
hand, and finally by simply telling him to lie down. 

"In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress and reward 
him for lying down, and your horse, comprehending what you 
want and finding himself paid for compliance, will soon be as 
anxious to get down for the reward as you are to have him do so." 



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